2023 Trip 6, Part 3, Days 5-6, Kilkenny, Ireland

This post covers our two days in Kilkenny, Ireland. Before I get to this stay, some Irish history. There are many cities and counties in Ireland that start with “Kil.” This isn’t because they are a violent society that wants to kill everything and everyone. “Kil” is derived from the Gaelic word “Cill,” or church. So, there are a lot of places named after churches. The name Kilkenny is derived from the Gaelic “Cill Chainnigh,” which means “Church of Cainnech.” Cainnech was an Irish monk and missionary who founded a monastery in the Kilkenny area in the 6th century. Now you know.

Day 5

We enjoyed a quiet final night in Dublin. Amazing what shutting a window can do. Our last breakfast was delicious, as usual, and came with another screaming child, as usual. We packed up and took a taxi to the airport so we could pick up our rental car. Once in the car, on the wrong side of the car, we were off driving down the wrong side of the road. Since I covered the ordeal of driving in the first post, I will not dwell on it here. I drove us to the town of Enniscorthy, so we could eat at the Bailey Bar and Eatery.

The inside was interesting, and the food was pretty good.

Sylvia and I had Bailey cheeseburgers. Cindy had a vegetable soup with brown bread, and salad. The food, atmosphere, and service earned this place a solid 4.5 on the link scale. When you add half a point for the great name, it earned a link. After our meal, I drove us to Waterford in a light rain to keep the number of rainy days in a row streak alive. Waterford is the home to the House of Waterford, the home of Waterford Crystal. On our way there, our GPS took us down some crazy narrow street that turned out to be a pedestrian path. That would explain the dirty looks from the pedestrians. I also ended up on the wrong side of the road twice. That was my fault, not the GPS. We finally made it to the House of Waterford alive and without killing anyone.

We had scheduled a tour that I agreed to because I knew Cindy and Sylvia would enjoy it. I was pleasantly surprised that I enjoyed it as well. Prior to the tour, we had time to look around the display area where they have various items for sale. I was thinking if I found something really special, I could get it for Cindy and surprise her with it. Here is the first thing I found that I liked.

You read that right, 2,150 euros. There would be no surprise gifts from Waterford. Then I found a really cool decanter that could be used for wine or whiskey.

A mere 310 euro, before shipping. Close, but no cigar. Or no decanter in this case. Here are a few other interesting items in the display area.

Our tour started with the William Maddock clock. The clock was made from Waterford crystal, with the clock parts made by the famous clock maker from the late 1700’s, William Maddock.

Here was the mold area.

This is where most of the crystal items are hand blown. We were able to see two vases being hand blown while we were there.

Most of the items are hand cut by artisans.

A few are cut by machines.

Here are a few more interesting items from the tour.

This is a great tour. We highly recommend taking it if you have the chance. There is a link in the usual place. Our next stop was at our Airbnb about 10 minutes south of downtown Kilkenny. It was a two-bedroom, two-bathroom place with a washer and dryer so we could do some laundry. There was a light rain on the drive there and it lightly rained for the rest of the evening. Here are a few pictures of our place.

Our bathroom had the smallest sink I have ever seen on my life. That’s my small travel toothbrush on the right side of the sink.

The owners of the place clearly had a sense of humor based on this painting in our bedroom.

After getting settled in, we took a cab to dinner in the downtown area. We ate at Dopplo.

We all had steaks, veggies, potatoes, and mushrooms. I added a Guinnes Old Fashioned. We all enjoyed our meals. I have to admit the drink was the best art of my meal. The steak was good, just a little tough. The girls also had the same experience with their steaks.

For dessert, we all split some cheesecake and some ice cream in a shue bun. Again, everything was good. We all rated Dopplo a 4 on the link scale.

After dinner, we walked across the parking lot to a small grocery store where we bought some breakfast and snack items for our place. When it was time to return to our Airbnb, we called the same cab company, and it was lucky that we did. We did not bring the address of our place and had no idea how to get there, or where it actually was for that matter. Our driver called on the radio and found the driver who picked us up. That driver told our driver how to get to our place. Talk about feeling stupid. Our driver told us about a really fun train to ride in Kilkenny that would show us the highlights of the city. It was across from Kilkenny Castle, where we were visiting the next day. We decided we had to try that. Who doesn’t like a train ride? We made it back to our place and got some rest.

Day 6

After a quick breakfast at our place, I drove us into Kilkenny for a tour of Kilkenny Castle. Once again, we would deal with light rain for most of the day. Luckily, most of the tour was indoors. As for Kilkenny castle, it has been continuously occupied in one form or another for the past 800 years. The castle and grounds take up just over 50 acres, as it is surrounded by lush and manicured park like settings. Here are some pictures from the outside and entrance area.

Here are some pictures of the surrounding grounds.

The inside of the castle was pretty amazing and well maintained. Here is just a sampling of what we saw on our tour.

If you ever wondered why the beds are usually very small in Victorian settings, it is not because the people were small. Most royalty were overweight and tended to overeat at most meals. In order to be comfortable when sleeping, they slept in an almost sitting up posture, kind of like when you are in a recliner. Since recliners had not been invented yet, the used the arm rest to prop themselves up.

There was a great hall that was covered in art. Even the cross members supporting the roof had art painted on them.

This was an amazing place to visit, and you must book a tour in advance if you plan on visiting. Use the link at the end of this post to get your reservation now.

We walked across the street from the castle and looked for the train that had been suggested to us the night before. We found it.

While not what we expected, we tried it anyway and had a good time. Here are some of the sights we saw.

When we drove past a really old cemetery, I snapped two pictures in quick succession, one in portrait and one in landscape.

I cannot explain the orb in the second picture. Could it be a ghost? Your guess is as good as mine. I can tell you I did nothing to alter the second picture and didn’t even notice the orb until my daughter pointed it out to me. Interesting stuff if you ask me. All of the possible ghost sightings made us hungry and we decided to walk to a place recommended by one of our cab drivers from the night before. He told us we had to visit Mac McMillian’s Pub. It took a solid five minutes of back and forth before we realized he was telling us to visit Matt the Millers Pub. So that is where we walked.

For lunch, we started with a baked brie that was really good. I had a chicken sandwich that was two breaded breasts and was really good as well. I drank a local red ale that was just as good as the food. Cindy and Sylvia split a cheeseburger and they really enjoyed their food too.

Matt the Millers earned the rare restaurant link at the end of this post. We drove to a local grocery store and picked up some food we could cook at our place. It stopped raining for a few minutes when we arrived, so I was able to get a picture of the yard.

After dinner, we played some cards and were off to bed to rest up for the next busy day.

The next post will cover our three days in Killarney, near the west coast of Ireland. Stay dry until then.

LINKS

Bailey Bar and Eatery

House of Waterford

Kilkenny Castle

Matt the Millers Bar and Restaurant

2023 Trip 6, Prologue – Ireland

After spending an amazing 15 days in Ireland, I decided to do this post a little differently. This first post will be a gaggle a general information from the trip. The following posts will revert back to my old format of detailing the trip daily. First, I will discuss how Aer Lingus got added to the never fly with them again list, joining Hawaiian Airlines.

Our original trip was planned from Sunday September 10th thru Tuesday September 26. On Sunday morning the 10th, I was enjoying (I use this term loosely) a round of golf with my friends. Our flight was scheduled to leave at 8:15 PM, so a morning round was not a problem. At around 9:30 AM as I on the 15th hole, and I got a text from Aer Lingus telling me our flight had been cancelled for “Operational Issues” and to call to get it rescheduled. What the heck? Long story short, we were rebooked on the same flight for the next day, Monday. No compensation, no sorry, no nothing. But I did have to pay over $100 to select new seats that were not as good as the seats we had before. Happy, happy, joy, joy. We had to cancel a tour, but were able to get our money back on that. We also had prepaid tickets to visit Kilmainham Goal that we were not able to use and lost money on that. Serinity Now!! We were determined to roll with the punches, and after a 10 1/2 hour flight on Monday, landed safely in Ireland.

The Weather

Ireland is called the Emerald Isle because it rains so much it is always an emerald green. So how much does it rain you ask? The South and East of the Country sees bout about 150 days of rain a year, similar to Seattle. The West Coast gets about 225 days of rain a year. We would be in all of those places. Our pre-trip research had prepared us well for the probability of rain. We had raincoats, umbrellas, special bags to put the wet umbrellas in so you could put them in your pocket, and scotch guarded shoes and boots. We were prepared. And in case you were wondering about the special bags to put the wet umbrellas in, here are pictures. They were very useful, and I highly recommend getting some if you are going to travel in a rainy environment.

And in case you were wondering, that is not a giant donut in the background, it is a neck pillow for flying.

So how much did it really rain on us and was all of our preparation really necessary? YES. It rained on us every day except for one. It rained on us 14 of the 15 days. And the rain varied from a light to moderate rain most of the time, with heavy rain only a few times. Rain, rain, rain.

Driving

You read that correctly, you drive on the left side of the road.

You are seeing that correctly; you drive from the right side of the car. So how hard could it be to drive on the wrong side of the road from the wrong side of the car? If that was all you had to do, it would be manageable. But driving in Ireland is like an “As Seen On TV” ad, there is always more. Try adding in hundreds of roundabouts (traffic circles in the US) where you drive clockwise instead of counterclockwise. And people drive fast and aggressive in the roundabouts. Next try driving on roads that are barely wide enough for two cars to inch by each other. Then add parked cars to one side that are half on the sidewalk and half in the street. Then add full sized double decker tour busses flying by you at high-speed missing taking off your side view mirror by less than an inch. Still not tough enough? We will add some bicyclists (yes, in the rain), some construction, some hedgerows that come right out to the street, and some rain. In the city centers, you can add unpredictable pedestrians that dart out all the time. Needless to say, driving was a challenge. To my credit, I did not damage the car even though it felt like I was going to a few times. There was one helpful thing they did. Most intersections had large blue signs pointing out where the curbs were to help you avoid hitting them.

The Restroom

In the US, we typically call the bathroom the restroom, or the bathroom. In Ireland, they are mostly called Toilets. Here is a collection of public signs.

This sign confused me.

Are they telling you the toilets have been turned off and no longer work or are they for people with disabilities?

And this was my favorite. It was common in public toilets.

This machine dispensed one square at a time. The squares were a little larger than our typical squares, but it was still one square at a time. Can you spare a square?

The Food

Almost every pub and restaurant had the same basic menu that was supplemented with a few different items. The core items you could find at most places were: Irish stew with lamb, which was outstanding; Shepard’s Pie with beef, which was a beef stew covered in browned mashed potatoes; Fish and chips, with one giant piece of breaded fish instead of several; Vegetable soup, a very thick and creamy soup that was delicious; and Goat cheese salad. In addition to these core items, it was pretty easy to find steaks, chicken, and fresh fish dishes, hamburgers and cheeseburgers. The food was not bland, but it was very lightly spiced and there were no dishes we ate that had any spicy heat to them. The black pepper was so finely ground it was like a powder. Whomever used it at our table would always sneeze and sometimes cause someone else to sneeze as well. Most of the sodas came in 11-ounce bottles, which felt small. The entire time we were in Ireland, I only found Dr. Pepper once and of course I had to buy it.

While the size of the soda was a little disappointing, the size of the beer was not. You can order either half a pint or a pint. I only ordered pints. And they were all outstanding.

Here are two interesting bags of chips I found.

I’m not sure what shamrocks taste like, but apparently, they are good when paired with sour cream. And now on to breakfast, a very important meal in Ireland. Here is what my breakfast usually looked like. Eggs, Irish bacon, Irish sausage, Irish yogurt, and cold cuts of salami and chorizo.

And my breakfast was several items short of a proper Irish breakfast. I passed on the baked beans (seriously), black pudding, and mushrooms.

First, the items I passed on. I love baked beans, just not for breakfast. I did see a lot of people eating them with their breakfast. Black pudding is a type of blood sausage. That was a hard pass. And I’m ok with mushrooms, but with so much other good food, I didn’t want to waste the room in my stomach. Next, the food I ate. The eggs were eggs, nothing special there. It was the same with the cold cuts. The Irish yogurt was the bomb. It was much thicker than our yogurt and tangier. When you added some fruit compote to it, it was fantastic. The Irish sausage was a bit plain for me and had an odd, almost sawdust like texture. I really wanted to like it, and kept trying it, with the same result. I believe that is the definition of insanity. Now the Irish bacon was another story. It more than made up for the Irish sausage.

As you can see in the picture, it is really ham with a bacon tail. And it was delicious. If I had to pick only one food I could eat for the rest of my life, this would be it.

We also learned a chicken sandwich with mayo is really a chicken salad sandwich. And the servers at every place we ate had the same routine. The service was really good until after the desert was served, then they disappeared. We were constantly hunting someone down to get a check. And you have to tell them you are using a credit card, because they bring the machine to your table. Most places will let you add the tip right there, but a few would not, and you had to leave a cash tip. And in the evening hours, most places that served alcohol had a security guard at the door. It was not required, but was extremely common.

The Distilled Water Saga

I have a CPAP machine that I travel with and it needs distilled water to operate. I have never had a problem getting it wherever we have traveled. I did research on the internet and looked like it would be easy to get in Ireland as well. Famous last words. On our first night, right after dinner, we walked to a local store that listed distilled water on their website, but there was no picture with it. I should have noticed that clue. At the store, I couldn’t find any distilled water, so I asked an employee. They pointed to the Ballygowan Still Natural Mineral Water.

This is where I learned they have still water, and sparkling water. But not distilled water. Mineral water is the exact opposite of distilled water. Now I had to go on a walking hunt for distilled water. After several stops at a variety of places, someone told me they sold distilled water at the pharmacy, and it is behind the pharmacy counter, and I had to ask someone there to get it. I walked to the nearest pharmacy that was still open and success, they sold distilled water. Typically, I pay around $1 a gallon for it. In Hawaii, I had to pay $2 a gallon, but that was understandable. Here I paid just over $15 US, for a liter. And that was not going to be enough for the whole trip, so I had to buy a second liter. In case you struggle like I do with the metric system, there are about 3.78 liters in a gallon. I was paying over $56 US a gallon for distilled water. That’s a big ouch.

A Few General Things

The floors in buildings are numbered differently than in the US. The ground floor is zero, not 1. The first floor is up one, what we call the 2nd floor. And so on. If the basement is the first floor down from the main floor, it is -1. See for yourself.

And the electricity in your room is controlled by a box you have to put your room key in to turn on the power.

And the electric outlets are different as well. We had our converters with us.

The Words

Even though they speak English, there are many different words they use. Some are from England, and some are from the Gaelic language native to Ireland. Irish people cannot pronounce the “TH” sound, so thirty sounds like tirty, thanks sounds like tanks, and so on. Here are some of the words we learned while we were there.

IRELANDUNITED STATES
BootCar trunk
BonnetCar hood
Take awayFood to go
UniversityAll colleges and universities
City CentreDowntown
Craic (crack)Music, dancing, fun
RoundaboutTraffic circle
RubbishTrash
CueLine
PetrolGasoline
Straight awayRight now
LiftElevator
HolidayVacation
HobStove top range
ProperVery good
Half 99:30
Washing liquidDish soap
Hand washLiquid hand soap
Toilet or water closetBathroom or restroom
Pull a pintServe a pint of beer
MotorwayHighway or freeway
TrollyShopping cart
Sale agreedSold
Traffic calmingTraffic slowing
JumperSweater
PorrageOatmeal
BangersIrish sausage
Champ or mashMashed potatoes
ChipsFrench fries
CrispsPotato chips
EejitIdiot
FeckThe “F” word

Now that we all have a slightly better understanding of Ireland, it is time to end this post and prepare for the next ones. Stay tuned for the actual trip.